If you have ever received an answer along the lines of “that amount is not possible” or “less was approved than you expected”, you have already seen what creditworthiness means in practice. The good news is that it is not some magic number known only to the bank. In most cases, you can get a pretty good sense of where you stand and what you can do to get better terms (or at least more realistic expectations).
In this article, I explain how banks in Slovenia usually assess creditworthiness, what most often lowers it, and how you can at least partly improve it for both a mortgage and a consumer loan. If you want a quick calculation, use our creditworthiness calculator.
What creditworthiness is (in plain English, but fairly precisely)
Creditworthiness is an assessment of how large a monthly instalment you can realistically carry given your income and liabilities. Banks generally look at two things above all:
- how much you have left after they take income, costs, and liabilities into account,
- whether you will be able to keep paying the instalment regularly even if things change (for example, rising interest rates on a variable-rate loan).
What banks usually take into account in the calculation
Each bank has its own models, but in practice the input data are quite similar. The biggest differences come from how strictly the bank interprets each element.
1) Income (how “truly” stable it is)
Regular employment income is the most “straightforward”. For extras (for example, the variable part of your salary), copyright-contract income, or income from a sole proprietorship, banks often require more supporting documents and a longer period of stability.
2) Existing liabilities (loans, leasing, cards, limits)
This is the part that most often surprises first-timers. The bank does not look only at your existing loans. It often also takes into account:
- leasing and other long-term liabilities,
- credit cards, especially if you have a revolving balance or fixed instalments,
- an authorised overdraft/limit (even if you do not use it in full), because it represents potential risk.
3) Household and dependants
If you have dependants, the “room” left for an instalment usually shrinks. Not because the bank doubts your sense of responsibility, but because the model assumes higher basic living costs.
4) Loan term and loan amount
For the same amount, a longer term will generally mean a lower instalment, but a higher total cost. That is exactly why it makes sense to combine two tools:
- first estimate your limit with the creditworthiness calculator,
- then check the instalment and total overpayment with the loan calculator.
5) Type of loan: mortgage vs. consumer loan
With mortgages, there are usually more elements involved (for example, insurance, valuation, a mortgage lien). With consumer loans, the process is often faster, but the interest rate is usually higher. In both cases, the same rule applies: if the instalment is “right on the edge”, the bank will usually be more conservative.
The most common reasons you get less (or do not get approved)
- The instalment is too high relative to your net income (even if “you feel like it would work”).
- Too many open liabilities (for example, a loan + leasing + card + limit).
- Income is not stable enough (for example, a new job or highly variable income).
- Too many applications in a short period of time (this can look like “panic” or searching for a last option).
Quick rule of thumb:
If you want a good initial sense of where you stand, your planned instalment should still leave you enough “breathing room” for day-to-day life and a reserve after all obligations are paid. The bank looks at things conservatively, but in the end you are the one who will be repaying that instalment for years.
Example: mortgage and consumer loan (two quick simulations)
So this does not stay purely theoretical, let us look at two typical situations. The purpose of these examples is not “official approval”, but guidance on how this line of thinking translates into actual numbers.
Example 1: mortgage
You want a loan to buy property and are aiming for a term of 20-30 years. The key question is: what monthly instalment can your household handle even in a less favourable scenario? For a quick estimate, use the creditworthiness calculator, and then check the specific term and total overpayment in the loan calculator.
Example 2: consumer loan
You need financing for a renovation or a larger purchase. The term is shorter (for example, 3-7 years), so the monthly instalment can quickly be higher. With consumer loans, it is especially important to understand the APR (Annual Percentage Rate), because it also includes costs. If you want a quick explanation, also read the article What Is APR and Why Is It More Important Than the Nominal Interest Rate?.
How to improve your creditworthiness (practical checklist)
- Sort out your liabilities: if you have several smaller instalments, check whether you can consolidate or close them.
- Watch your limits: high authorised limits and revolving cards can worsen the picture, even if you do not actively use them.
- Documentation: prepare supporting documents (especially if you have variable income or are self-employed).
- Term: a longer term lowers the instalment but increases the cost, so make sure you check both scenarios.
- Reserve: if you are “right on the edge”, it is smarter to build a financial reserve first before committing to a long-term instalment.
Advice for FinPortal readers:
The fastest workflow is: (1) calculate your limit with the creditworthiness calculator, (2) compare specific offers with the loan calculator, and (3) when comparing banks, always also check the APR (not just the advertised interest rate).